Although it is almost the smallest country in South America, Uruguay obviously has a big heart when it comes to gay visitors. Bordered by Brazil to the north and Argentina to the west, Uruguay has survived competition from Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro to become the favorite spot for gay vacationers from South America and now from around the world.
With an area of only 175 square kilometers and a national population of 3.5 million, almost fifty percent of whom live in the capital city of Montevideo, beautiful sandy beaches, and rolling hills in the interior, Uruguay offers a variety of vacation activities to this new wave of tourists.
Five years ago, this month in 2003, the federal government passed a law protecting members of sexual minorities from print and physical homophobic abuse. This was followed in November 2007 by the recognition of same-sex civil unions at the national level, the first country in South America to allow homosexual unions. The legal age of consent is eighteen and homosexual acts in public are still frowned upon, but the general attitude in Uruguay is very pro-homosexual.
The cities of Montevideo and Colonia plus the coastal resort of Punta del Este —Star of the Costa Dorada—is where most of the gay and gay-friendly businesses can be found. Although the Punta del Este Riviera is little known to North Americans, it has star power and rivals many other established gay destinations among the savvy gay jet-setter looking for somewhere a little different from the norm.
This small country has honestly earned its nickname of Uru-Gay and the first time you visit it will allow you to understand how it came to be.
The capital city, Montevideo, is rich in Spanish history from the 18th century when it was founded as a military stronghold and the Ciudad Vieja offers many examples of the original buildings erected by the first settlers. This is the most fashionable neighborhood in the city and comes to life after dark as the entertainment hub of Montevideo. Among this historic neighborhood can also be found a recent addition of the Park of Sexual Diversity and the Monument to the Persecution of Gays and Lesbians opened in February 2005 in recognition of the Nazi persecution of gays and lesbians. It is located on Calle Polícia Vieja, between Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza Independencia. This is the first monument of its kind in South America and the fourth in the world after Amsterdam, New York and San Francisco. This was a great achievement that the local gay community is extremely proud to have started and another demonstration of the gay friendly Uru-Gay village. Not surprisingly, here you will also find many gay and gay-friendly bars, restaurants and shops that surround the park.
Throughout the Old City, along cobbled streets and among beautiful parks and squares, there are many historical sights that provide hours of walking pleasure and, of course, gastronomic delights. The Port Market is a collection of restaurants, bars and outdoor cafes offering local wines and culinary specialities. A local custom that will always please is Medio y Medio — a complimentary glass of local champagne and wine (red or white) — to be enjoyed while perusing the menu. Of course, Uruguay is famous for La Parrilla, local grilled meats, accompanied by a wide variety of locally grown vegetable garnishes to complement your meal. You’ll also be pleasantly surprised at how good and cheap the local wines turn out to be with a little tip from your waiter.
Adjacent to the Mercado del Puerto is the Pérez Castellano pedestrian street, which allows you to enjoy the views and shops without noisy traffic and travel back in time through this old Spanish settlement in peace and quiet. Outside of the Old City, 18 de Julio street commemorates Uruguayan Independence Day. It is a very long walk through the heart of Montevideo and almost all the main attractions are close to this street. It is full of parks, squares, monuments and impressive architectural examples of belle epoque and art deco buildings. The City of Montevideo publishes a very good map with a walking route that will allow you to see everything in just a couple of rest days walking and stopping to enjoy the views.
In the Plaza Independencia, in the heart of the city, is the gay bar Placid Salvo and, coincidentally, also the Embassy of Canada. Although Montevideo’s gay bars don’t open until late at night, the maple leaf flag flies at the edge of this plaza 24/7! The other gay bar, Cain, the oldest gay bar in the city, is located at Cerro Largo 1833 in Arenal Grande. This bar is located in a huge heritage building and has several levels with three dance floors and is the most popular with locals and visitors alike. Although there are only two gay bars in the city, there are plenty of gay-friendly establishments to enjoy as well with a mix of straight, gay, bisexual and transgender patrons. Be prepared for exciting times from late night to early morning in this vibrant city.
Of course, any city in the southern hemisphere bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and a large river estuary on the other is bound to have some spectacular beaches, and Montevideo is no exception. Near the center of town is Playa Ramírez and a short bus or taxi ride will take you to Playa Pocitos or Playa Malvin. Pack plenty of suntan lotion as the lightning here is very strong and during the winter months there is very little cloud cover and the temperature averages in the mid 30’s. However, you will find plenty of beach bars and outdoor cafes in case you need to find some shade and refreshments.
Shopping in Montevideo offers a wide variety of options and prices are very low compared to Canadian prices. There are large chain stores, small boutiques, local craft shops, markets and, of course, leather factories. Make sure your plastic is ready for a bang, as there will be plenty of must-haves and irresistible items to discover as you stroll through the charming streets of the city.
Finding gay accommodation in Montevideo is a challenge, but Hostal La Puerto Negra is a charming gay bed and breakfast located in a residential neighborhood within walking distance of the city center and Ciudad Vieja. The rooms are large, the historic building is charming, and the rates are very reasonable. Otherwise, the options are very gay-friendly and most Montevideo room rates are very affordable depending on the style of accommodation and location you choose.
Outside of Montevideo, the small town of Colonia is only a two and a half hour bus ride away and will provide a complete change of pace from the big city. Here you will find Portuguese-style architecture and cobblestone streets reminiscent of Lisbon, Portugal. The winding streets and colorful houses are arranged in a different pattern than in most Spanish colonial cities, and are a joy to explore. The historic quarter, Barrio Histórico, on a small peninsula jutting into the river, was named a World Heritage Site in 1995. The city’s history dates back to 1745 and you can see a historic drawbridge built at that time, the El Faro lighthouse built in 1857, or visit the Sunday market in the Plaza Mayor. A day or two in Colonia is a perfect way to see another side of Uruguay’s unique appeal and history. The city produces a wide variety of local textiles and has a free trade zone which improves already low prices.
Traveling northeast for about 140 kilometers from Montevideo brings you to the luxury resort town of Punta del Este on the Atlantic coast. This small coastal town of just over ten thousand inhabitants grows to a seasonal population of around one million people during the months of December through February. The beautiful beaches, casinos and entertainment attract many repeat visitors and newcomers making this South American Riviera not to be missed. The gay community is growing and now includes hotels, bars, restaurants and shops for a complete gay holiday experience. The beaches here offer everything from sailing on the Atlantic breeze on the calm waters to kicking back and working on your tan or surfing the waves. No trip to Uruguay is complete without a visit to Punta del Este and fun Monte Carlo style!
For a small country, you will be amazed at all that Uru-Gay has to offer and what an unspoiled and unknown gay holiday park you have found.
There is also a very experienced GLBT travel company specializing in gay holidays in Uruguay but based in the United States and can be found at gay-uruguay.com who assist with a holiday anywhere in this small country with the great gay welcome mat They can arrange special accommodations, tours and activities to suit your personal idea of the perfect gay vacation.
This winter enjoy a unique vacation in the southern hemisphere and discover why everyone talks about one of the smallest countries in South America with the biggest heart and welcome for gay vacationers.
