Caveat! This article has nothing to do with the horrible sandwich meat.
After battling rush hour congestion, some GPS misinformation, tiny crowded streets, and a strip mall jammed with strolling groups on a Saturday night, listening to “buonasera signora” is immediately relaxing!
Thus began the visit to Bologna. Arriving on a Saturday, at the height of nightly shopping and the start of “apero” (cocktail) time, was quite an adventure. However, once settled in the very central Hotel Metropolitan, with a map of the city in hand and a few restaurant suggestions, we ventured out into the crowded streets. Bologna is located in northern Italy, it is the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region. Bologna was called Felsina at the time of the Etscanos and was later renamed Bononia under the Romans. Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world, dating back to 1088. Today Bologna still has a strong student population.
We walked the short distance along Via del l’Independenza to the famous Piazza Maggiore. This street is wide and lined with low-cost retail stores and a mix of coffee shops and fast food chains; it’s not that impressive. Piazza Maggiore is a beautiful medieval square, surrounded by several palaces and the Basilica of San Petronio. The buildings were built in Romanesque and Gothic styles between 1200 and 1400. Piazza Maggiore and the Fontana del Nettuno are beautiful during the day and at night, however the area is also very crowded (even in March). Continuing to Piazza Galvani, shopping moves in a distinctively upscale fashion and the crowds thin out.
The next morning, after a little bracing from the hotel’s buffet breakfast and a decent cappuccino, it was time to explore. Bologna has a well-preserved historic center, despite heavy damage from bombing in World War II. There are ancient towers, churches, large squares and 37 km of arcades. This city is so photogenic, be sure to bring your camera to capture changes in light and shadow along your way. The historic center can be easily visited on foot, as most of the sights are quite concentrated. There are countless museums that appeal to all tastes and fetishes; such as the Museum of Human Anatomy, the Museum of Physics, the Museum of Military Architecture, etc. Given the time constraints with only one day, we ruled out the museums.
Here is a short list of “things to do”:
- Main Square – because of the sheer size and bustling level of activity
- Basilica of San Petronio – although it is not the most beautiful, it is one of the largest of the medieval construction
- due torri – built in the 12th century, there used to be 100 towers forming a defensive system – only 20 remain today. You can climb to the top of the Torre degli Asinelli, the view is worth it!
- porches – there are 37km of arcades offering protection from the elements and summer heat. Some of the porches are in better condition than others, but most offer some unique photo opportunities.
- University Zone – worth the walk although not the biggest attraction
- old streets- Via Santo Stefano, Via San Vitale, Strada Maggiore – walk these streets and the little lanes in between to get a sense of Bologna ‘then and now’
- Tamburini – a classic Bologna deli, restaurant and café – to taste typical Bologna ingredients
- Zanarini Coffee – Lively cocktail scene and excellent coffee.
- View from San Lucas – located on top of a hill, this cathedral is linked to the old town by a long series of 666 porticoes (we suggest you drive up the hill)
Bologna is known as a city with a strong culinary reputation. This is not a light kitchen; there is a heavy emphasis on meat, cheese and pasta. There is a near addiction to cured pork; like prosciutto, salami and bologna. Pasta comes in all varieties, with the ragu bolognese as the most famous. The local region is also known for Parmesan cheese, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, and of course its excellent wines.
So an early morning visit to the Mercato delle Erbe is a foodie’s delight. It’s easy to miss this indoor market, the signage is far from obvious and the building is set back from the bustling Via Ugo Bassi, a retail and fast food strip. Once you find the entry market, you immediately know that you are in another world; the smells are fresh, the variety of colors is inviting and there is a feeling that you are actually closer to the source of your food. There are about 70 stalls; the central core of the market is mainly dedicated to fruits and vegetables. The outer walls and two wings are where more special items are found; cheeses, pastas, sausages, bread, fish, meat, etc. If you decide to go to the market, check the hours, as it “generally” opens early in the morning, early in the afternoon and closes on Sundays (although there is some flexibility in the hours).
Bologna is a city worth visiting and ideally with more time than we allow.
